Installing radiant floor heating on existing concrete slab

There are several manufacturers of electric radiant floor heating systems that can be placed directly on top of an existing concrete slab. Some look like wire fencing that you roll out over the floor. Another option for radiant floor heating that is energy efficient are systems that circulate hot water through small tubes under the floor. These radiant floor heating systems can also be installed on top of a slab before the flooring goes down.

There are several manufacturers of this type of radiant floor heating. Dan: I live in five miles from the Canadian border in Minn. I would like to build a new woodshop on the back of my lot and install radiant floor heating. Can you foresee any problem with the tubing and pump freezing during our very cold winters. Since I fish all summer I would be using the shop a lot in cold weather.

I am not sure the electric mats would be warm enough for my needs. I am thinking about a 30 x 20 size shop. What is your valued opinion. My husband has a 30 x 40 wood working shop.

I would like to surprise him by putting radiant heat in it. It is on a concrete slab. Will installing a radiant heat floor on a concrete slab foundation cause condensation in between the surfaces? How do you prevent condensation when installing a radiant heat floor over a concrete slab foundation?

As stated above, regarding condensation over a concrete slab, is condensation an issue? Second, what types of flooring can be applied over the radiant floor heating system. We are considering a seamless epoxy floor surface to cover the floor heating system. Would condensation or any other potential issues prohibit this type of floor covering to be applied. If so what is the recommended floor covering that would be similar to epoxy. Follow the blueprint provided by the manufacturer; some mats cover the entire room in one large piece, while others need to be manipulated into place.

If you need to turn the mat at any time, cut the mat around the embedded wires carefully to allow some movement, then flip the mat and wires around to change direction. Once the mat is completely laid out, hook it up to the volt-ohm meter for a second reading and make sure the numbers have not changed. Every mat adheres slightly differently to the concrete, depending on the manufacturer's recommendation. Some manufacturers recommend the use of thinset mortar -- the same mortar used to install tiles.

Other manufacturers recommend the use of hot glue. If your manufacturer recommends thinset, fold the mat back carefully, spread the mortar onto the concrete with a trowel, then fold the mat back into place. If your manufacturer recommends hot glue or another non-spreadable adhesive, squeeze a thin line of it down the center of each portion of the mat to adhere it and the wires to the concrete.

Your mat's manufacturer dictates what type of finished flooring you can install over your mat. Most mats are installed beneath a tile floor, using standard tile installation procedures, but some can be installed beneath a floating wood or laminate floor, as well. The mats are designed to handle the weight of a typical finished floor with Portland cement-based mortar between the mat and the tile.

For added insurance, test your floor one last time with a volt-ohm meter after installing the finished flooring to ensure no damage has been done. Once the vapor barrier is in, you should insulate the slab from the earth. Extruded or expanded polystyrene rigid blue or pink board is the material of choice. Radiant floor heating systems are made using high tech materials and can have a lifespan of up to years.

If well maintained, these systems can beat the lifespan of conventional HVAC systems. However, you will need to replace the mechanical parts of the system over time. You can heat all of your house or supplement just a room or two.